The Bibbulmun Track – Mt. Cooke to Dwellingup

Continuing my Bibbulmun Adventure and in this third part I am accompanied by Dropbear, heading from Mount Cooke shelter to my first rest day in the town of Dwellingup.

Thursday, 3rd October 2013: Day 7

Dropbear and I were up at 5 am and on the trail forty-five minutes later. We took advantage of the cool conditions and refreshing breeze to climb Mount Cooke, where the visibility was perfect!

Climbing Mount Cooke
Climbing Mount Cooke
Ascending Mount Cooke
Ascending Mount Cooke
Summit of Mount Cooke
Mount Cooke Summit
Dropbear on Mount Cooke
Dropbear on Mount Cooke
Walking the ridge of Mount Cooke
Walking the ridge of Mount Cooke
Me on Mount Cooke
Me on Mount Cooke

Today was a long haul in thirty degrees so we wanted to get the bulk done with before the worst of the sun. An early start means we saw a few kangaroos, and I even got a picture!

Roo on Powerline Road
Roo on Powerline Road

We reached Nerang campsite at ten, and stopped for twenty minutes. We met our first South to North End to Ender, named “Bird”. I envied that he was just five days to the end of his journey, especially in this heat.

Break at Nerang Shelter
A break at Nerang Shelter

The 16 kilometres to Gringer Creek had to be the worst; flies bugged the hell out of me, and I choked on one. I even had the first tick on me, although it hadn’t buried its head to feed on my blood yet; Dropbear wasn’t so lucky!

Damn flies!
Damn Flies!

We made it to Gringer Creek by half two; a great effort. After a freshen up I wandered to the North Bannister Roadhouse on a spur trail, to pick up the first of my food drops. Had a cup of tea, and a thirst quenching iced tea.

Gringer Creek Shelter
Gringer Creek Shelter

In the evening, Dropbear lit a fire and we had a clear night for some great star gazing.

Firestarter
Firestarter

Friday, 4th October 2013: Day 8

Up at 6am, I found myself cornered by a spider in my bed. A quick fumble for my head torch, I made sure it wasn’t a redback before snapping one of the strands of web, and seeing the rest hurtle up to the ceiling, with the spider!

Albany Highway
Albany Highway

Off at 7am, saw three more roos, doubling my count to six. We crossed the Albany Highway; strange to think that a car journey of a few hours would see us at the Southern Terminal, as opposed to fifty or so days.

Dropbear on Albany Highway
Dropbear on Albany Highway

It was an easy unsealed vehicle track to the foot of Boonerring Hill, with an abundance of opportunities to snap some wildflowers. We also saw our first Wedge-tailed Eagles, being harassed by some crows.

Wildflowers
Wildflowers
Wildflower
Wildflower
Enjoying the stroll
Enjoying the stroll
Wildflowers
Wildflowers
Wildflower
Wildflower

The climb up the hill was exerting, but I had my legs in now and each ascent is getting easier. The summit is reached by a spur trail, and we dumped our packs to visit the top. I’m sure the views are great, but we only got to see some wet stuff heading our way, so we made a hasty retreat to our bags and the rest of the walk.

Starting up Boonerring Hill
Starting up Boonerring Hill
Boonerring Hill
Boonerring Hill
Wildflowers
Wildflower
Boonerring Hill Summit
Boonerring Hill Summit
View from Boonerring Hiil
View from Boonerring Hill

We descended a rocky and unkempt part of the track, and made our way to the next lump in our way;  Kimberling Hill. At the end of a day, this seemed a never ending ascent, but finally it dropped to White Horse Hills campsite. Just as we arrived, at 12:45pm, the rain began.

White Horse Hill Shelter
White Horse Hills Shelter
Lonesome Loo
Lonesome Loo at White Horse Hills Shelter

There was one other camper; Ritchie. He was walking from Dwellingup to Kalamunda. He was a colourful character; he had already walked the track, had many tales of his jobs catching reptiles and snakes in the Pilbara, digging test holes for a mining company, driving across Australia for the hell of it..

We spent the afternoon chatting, reading, eating, drinking coffee. In the evening, Ritchie expertly lit a fire and tended to it constantly, whilst he spun his yarns on relationships and life.

Ritchie
Ritchie

Saturday, 5th October 2013: Day 9

A double hut day and 30km to tame. Up at 5:20 am and away in the mizzle nearly an hour later.

Turns out Kimberling Hill wasn’t finished with us yet, and had a second lower summit. Had the weather been good, it would have afforded a great photo opportunity, but my camera stayed safe and dry in my rucksack.

All day, rain came and went, but the trail was good, using old vehicle tracks.

We were up at Mount Wells shelter at 10:15 am. This is the only shelter on the entire track that is fully enclosed. It was former accommodation for those who attended to the fire watchtower that sat beside it. It wasn’t very welcoming, though, and I was glad I had decided to skip it. We stopped for an hour, for lunch.

Mount Wells Fire Watchtower
Mount Wells Fire Watchtower
Mount Wells Shelter for lunch
Mount Wells Shelter
Aerial view of Mount Wells Shelter
Aerial view of Mount Wells Shelter

With 15km left to go, as we descended, we were both beginning to feel niggling pains. Dropbear’s was more worrying, as he suspected it might be shin splints. We slowed our pace and enjoyed the scenery, which was far better (apart from the scar of the Boddington Gold Mine) than our last double hutter to Gringer Creek.

Boddington Gold Mine on the horizon
Boddington Gold Mine on the horizon
Dropbear on track
Dropbear on track
A long day
A long day
Half hour to camp
Half hour to camp

We arrived at Chadoora close to four in the afternoon; by far our longest day.

Chadoora Shelter
Chadoora Shelter

Already there and with a fire going, was Graham, a 61 year old out for a ramble from North Bannister to Dwellingup. He was pleased to see us because he had someone to take a look at a tick he had on his back. It was a big bugger, but there was actually six! Dropbear had a go at removing them, and was partially successful, before having to attend to one of his own! So far, I have escaped this joy; maybe they don’t like my pommie blood!

As the evening went on, the weather brightened and we had our thoughts on the walk into Dwellingup tomorrow.

Sunday, 6th October 2013: Day 10

Off at 6:15 am, a misty morning with plenty of wallaby sightings. By the time we had reached an old railway line, the sun had appeared and it promised to be a pleasant stroll into town.

Early morning out of Chadoora
Early morning out of Chadoora
Day 10: fallen tree
Fallen Tree
Discontinued Railway Track
Discontinued Railway Track
Veering off the railway track
Veering of the railway track
Wildflower
Wildflowers

However, after we took a break at Etmilyn Siding; a station platform, the trail took a turn for the worse.

Etmilyn Siding
Etmilyn Siding

Between here and the old township of Hollyoake, the path was the most overgrown we had encountered and our march through the bush was made all the more frustrating by the flat railway line that stayed between 3 and 30 metres away. But the purist in us kept us on the right path and when we got through the worst, we took off our shirts and did a quick tick check; thankfully all clean!

At Hollyoake, things were more sedate.

STOP LOOK FOR TRAINS
STOP. LOOK FOR TRAINS
Wildflowers
Wildflowers
Daisies on the track
Daisies on the track

We strolled into Dwellingup just before midday. Dropbear said goodbye as he made for a telephone, whilst I went to the Visitor Centre to sign the log book. I thought I might see him again, but our paths didn’t cross, and hopefully he’ll find me on Facebook and we can go for a beer in Perth at the end of all this, as I really enjoyed our few days together. I know he’ll be in the log books, so I hope he leaves a way to get in touch; stupid of me not to get a contact number.

The rest of my day I settled into the Dwellingup Chalet and Camping Park, went to the Blue Wren Cafe for a steak burger and chips, and got my washing and food ready for the next leg in a couple of days time.

Monday, 7th October 2013: Day 11

Wow!, getting up late, well, 8:30am anyway, had left me with the feel of a hangover! I was missing the track and eager to be on my way.

The idea of an extra rest day had lost its appeal; well at least if I was to spend it in Dwellingup. No disrespect to the town, but it is sleepy and I was restless here.

I had a number of tasks today; Send a few items, back to Perth, that weren’t used on the first 202 kilometres so would not be needed for the rest. Go shopping for new socks and some other items that need replenishing such as food, and also ring Collie to bring my booking forward one night. All done without a hitch, I considered going about midday, but in reality, there were still a couple of items to do; charge camera batteries, headtorch and my Kindle.

Late in the morning, I wandered to the Visitor Centre to use their internet, but found it was shut on Monday and Tuesdays. I was definitely out of here tomorrow!

Late afternoon, a cyclist arrived at the park; Sean was 61 and doing the Mundabiddi Trail, a 1000km cycle route from Mundaring to Albany. We got talking and ended up down the Community Hotel for a couple of cold ones and dinner at the Blue Wren.

To be continued…

Published by Moorland Walker

Paul is a backpacker, tor bagger, Bibbulmun Track End to Ender and West Ham supporter. He moved down from London to live in Okehampton in 2016, after realising he was spending most of his weekends on Dartmoor and it just made sense to make it permanent!

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